BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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THE BACKYARD SERIES
BACKYARD VEGETABLES
W 346-H
Vegetable production is increasingly
popular for Tennessee residents.
Home vegetable gardening benefits
include financial and nutritional
value resulting from providing fresh
vegetables as well as enhancing
personal health and well-being
through gardening activities.
However, a basic understanding
of soils, site selection, and crop
maintenance is required before a
gardener can take full advantage
of the many benefits of home
vegetable production. To meet these
needs, this series of fact sheets has
been prepared by UT Extension
to inform home gardeners and
propel them to success in growing
vegetables.
TOMATOES — THE
HEART OF THE HOME
GARDEN
As the most popular crop grown by
home gardeners in the United States,
tomatoes (Solanum lycopersicum)
are certainly king of the garden. This
is definitely because of the number of
participating gardeners, but it is also
due to gardeners’ passion about their
home-grown tomatoes. The number
and variety of tomatoes currently on
the market and maintained through
personal seed saving is a testament
to the importance of this botanical
fruit that is most often referred to as
a vegetable. Tomatoes are a great
source of vitamins C and A, as well as
lycopene, which has been shown to be
beneficial to cardiovascular health.
There is both art and science in
producing the home-grown tomato.
In this factsheet, we will focus on the
science and detail some of the most
common and useful practices for
growing tomatoes in the home garden.
Figure 1 (above). Tomatoes come in an
amazing and beautiful variety of shapes and
colors.
THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN
GROWING TOMATOES
Natalie Bumgarner, Assistant Professor and UT Extension
Residential and Consumer Horticulture Specialist
Department of Plant Sciences
Anthony Carver, Extension Agent III and County Director, Grainger County
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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SELECTING TOMATO
TYPES AND PLANTS
TOMATO TYPES AND
CULTIVARS
Gardeners must make two important
decisions related to the types and
cultivars of tomatoes for the home
garden. The first is related to the
determinate or indeterminate habit of
the plant. Determinate tomatoes are
those that will “top themselves.” This
means that the primary growing tip
is genetically programmed to form a
flower at a certain point, and the plant
does not grow any taller. Determinate
tomatoes are typically shorter and can
be easier to manage in the garden.
Tomato fruit are set over a relatively
short period of time and then ripen
over a concentrated harvest interval
(often four to five weeks).
Indeterminate varieties continue to
grow and produce both new leaves and
new flowers from their primary growing
point. This continued growth means
they will be taller and continue to set
and mature fruit through the summer
and fall. Unless damaged by insects,
disease or environmental stress,
indeterminate tomatoes will produce
until killed by low temperatures in the
fall. So, they will require taller stakes to
provide good support.
When choosing between determinate
and indeterminate tomato plants,
consider your intended use.
Determinate plants may be best for
more concentrated yield for canning
while indeterminate plants may
produce over a longer period of time
for fresh eating. Also consider the time
available to invest in plant support,
training, disease and pest control, and
picking throughout the season.
The second decision important in
selecting tomatoes for the home
garden is the specific tomato cultivar.
Hundreds of tomato cultivars are
commercially available to home
gardeners with many more saved by
residents for personal production. The
most important considerations are the
disease resistance and the gardener’s
preference in terms of fruit color, size,
shape, taste and days to harvest.
Table 1 provides some examples of
tomatoes that have performed well
in trials in the region (courtesy of
University of Kentucky). Another good
source of information is the All-America
Selections website. This site details
vegetable cultivars that have been
Growth habit Cultivar** Days to harvest Fruit type, color, estimated size Disease resistances***
Determinate Early Girl F1 58 Slicer, red (4-5 oz.) V, F1, F2
Determinate Celebrity F1 75 Slicer, red (7-8 oz.) F1, F2, V, N, TMV
Determinate Plum Dandy F1 76 Paste, red F1, V, EB
Determinate Plum Crimson F1 80 Paste, red (4 oz.) VI, F1, F2, F3, EB
Determinate Mountain Fresh F1 77 Slicer, red (8-16 oz.) VI, F1, F2, EB-tolerant
Determinate Plum Regal F1 80 Paste, red (4 oz.) V, F1, F2, TSWV, LB, EB
Determinate Carolina Gold F1 71 Slicer, gold (10 oz.) V, F1, F2
Determinate Valley Girl F1 65 Slicer, red (7-8 oz.) V, F1, F2
Indeterminate Big Beef F1 70 Large slicer, red (9-16 oz.) F1, F2, V, N, TMV, LS
Indeterminate Cherokee Purple OP 72 Large slicer, purple (10 oz.)
Indeterminate Pink Girl F1 72 Slicer, pink (8 oz.) AC, F1, LS, V
Indeterminate Better Boy F1 75 Slicer, red (12 oz.) F1, N, V
Indeterminate Brandywine OP 78 Large slicer, many colors (10-16 oz.)
Indeterminate Mountain Magic F1 72 Cherry, red (2 oz.) EB, V, F1, F2,LB
Indeterminate Matt’s Wild Cherry OP 60 Cherry, red (<1 oz.) EB, LB
Indeterminate Cupid F1 71 Grape, red (<1 oz.) AC, F1, LS, BS
Indeterminate Supersweet 100 F1 65 Cherry, red (<1 oz.) F1, V
Indeterminate Sungold F1 65 Cherry, gold (<1 oz.) F1, TMV
Indeterminate Juliet F1 60 Grape, red (1-2 oz.) Cracking, EB
Indeterminate Jolly F1 75 Pear, pink (1-2 oz.)
* Cultivar information from University of Kentucky Extension publication ID133.
** F1 denotes hybrid cultivars, OP denotes open pollinated cultivars (see discussion below)
***AC=Alternaria stem canker, BS=bacterial speck, EB=early blight, Fx=Fusarium wilt races 1,2,3, LB=late blight,
LS=gray leaf spot, N=root knot nematode, TMV=tomato mosaic, TSWV=tomato spotted wilt virus,
V=Verticullium wilt, VI=viruses
Table 1. Tomato cultivars* suggested for home garden production
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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tested at many sites across the country
and found to be good performers
in home garden-like conditions (all-
americaselections.org/winners/index.
cfm).
PLANT SELECTION
Tomato cultivar selection is important,
but the selection or production of high-
quality plants is also crucial. Tomato
fruit yield and garden performance
begin with high quality plants.
Tomatoes can be direct seeded, but
due to the 90-120 days from seeding
to harvest, transplants are common
for garden tomatoes to reduce the
time to harvest. Because of this
convention in both commercial and
garden production, the time to harvest
listed in cultivar information (such as in
Table 1) will be estimates of time from
transplant to harvest of ripe fruit.
Tomato plants can be produced by
the gardener or purchased. Starting
your own transplants can enable
the largest selection of cultivars, but
it can be a challenge to maintain
appropriate conditions (see W 346-B
“The Tennessee Vegetable Garden:
Garden Planning, Plant Preparation and
Planting,” for additional information on
home transplant production). Whether
grown or purchased, tomato plants
should be stocky with strong root
systems. Plants that have been grown
with suboptimum light or improper
temperature conditions will often be
“leggy” or have thin stems with larger
distances between leaves. Also look for
transplants that have a healthy green
color and are free from damaged or
yellowed leaves that indicate insects
or plant stress. Inspect leaves for any
sign of disease. Avoid purchasing
transplants grown out of state, as these
have been a major source of disease
problems in Tennessee gardens.
Purchase locally grown transplants, if
possible. Transplant-borne diseases
such as bacterial spot are dicult or
impossible to control once introduced
into the garden. Tomato plants are
commonly 6 to 8 weeks old when
ready for garden planting.
All transplants should be “hardened
o” before planting. This term refers
to slowly subjecting plants to outdoor
conditions to lessen their stress at
transplant and help them to better
handle the sun, wind and temperatures
they will experience in the garden.
Many garden centers will have
plants that have been through these
conditions to enable them to have the
best chance of transitioning well to
your garden environment, but it can
be a good idea to ask what the recent
conditions have been when buying
plants.
HEIRLOOM TOMATOES
Heirloom is a term that commonly
is used to describe cultivars that are
expected to deliver characteristic
homegrown tomato flavor. Many
heirloom tomatoes have qualities that
may not be present in commercial
cultivars, such as softer texture or
thinner skin. These traits may make
fruit preferable for home eating.
However, issues in handling and
the lack of disease resistance are
drawbacks of heirloom tomatoes, such
as Cherokee Purple and Brandywine.
In more precise terms, commercial
heirloom cultivars are those that
were introduced by seed companies
before 1940 while family heirlooms
are maintained and distributed by
home gardeners or farmers. Heirlooms
are able to be maintained by seed
collection. This means that they are
open-pollinated or non-hybrid cultivars
that produce plants from seed that are
identical to the parent. Hybrid refers to
a tomato cultivar produced specifically
to combine traits from two parents.
Most of the new cultivars released
are hybrids because the crossing of
specific parents enables cultivars to
have distinct and desirable disease
resistance, taste, shape, color and other
traits. However, a cross of two distinct
lines means seeds from a hybrid
tomato fruit will not produce a plant
that is genetically similar to the parent.
Therefore, hybrid seeds or plants
must be purchased each year rather
than grown from seeds saved from a
previous crop.
GRAFTED TOMATOES
Grafting refers to the shoot (called a
scion) of one cultivar being placed on
the lower stem and roots of another
(rootstock) (Figure 3). They then
Figure 2. ‘Matt’s Wild Cherry’ tomatoes.
Figure 3. A recently grafted tomato with
the scion seen above the clear clip and the
rootstock below the clip. A clear plastic
clip tightly holds the scion and rootstock
together as plant tissue grows and connects
the two plants. Credits: Ken Chamberlain
and Vegetable Production Systems Lab —
OSU OARDC
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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grow together to become one plant.
Grafting is a mechanism that allows
desirable fruit traits of one tomato
cultivar to be combined with desirable
growth or disease resistance traits of
another. It most commonly is used
to provide resistance to soil-borne
diseases or nematodes, but it can
provide increased stress resistance
as well. Grafting also can be a means
to improve yield through strong root
growth or plants that last longer in
the field or garden. Grafting is costly
because it initially requires two plants
and extra handling and care in seedling
production and during healing of the
graft union. Grafted plants are available
for sale by many seed companies
and transplant producers. They may
be an asset to your garden, but the
conditions at your site will determine
whether the benefits of yield or disease
resistance are worth the extra time or
cost of grafted plants.
SELECTING AND
PREPARING THE
GARDEN SITE
SITE CONSIDERATION AND
CROP ROTATIONS
Tomato production is best carried
out in a garden site with medium-
textured, well-drained soil with a good
level of organic matter and supply of
nutrients (see W 346-A “The Tennessee
Vegetable Garden: Site Selection and
Soil Testing,” for more information on
garden site selection). If a suitable
in-ground site is not available, many
tomato cultivars can be grown in raised
beds (see W 346-E “The Tennessee
Vegetable Garden: Building and Using
Raised Beds”) and containers. Soil
tests should be taken to determine the
pH and nutrient level of the soil (see
W 346-C “The Tennessee Vegetable
Garden: Managing Plant Nutrition” for
more information on soil sampling and
testing). Tomato gardens should have
at least a 6.1 soil pH with an optimum
target range of 6.5 to 6.8. Keeping
the pH in these ranges is important
for nutrient utilization and can lessen
the impact of some soil diseases,
such as Fusarium wilt. Follow lime
recommendations on the soil test
report to attain this level.
Many diseases and pests that infect
vegetable plants can be reduced if
specific crops are not grown in the
same location in consecutive years.
Diseases and pests often impact
specific crop families, and it is best to
grow tomatoes in a site only once every
three to four years. Vine crops, such as
pumpkins and squash, sweet corn, or
beans and peas are good crops to grow
in the intervening years. Rotation does
not eliminate problems, but it can be a
good step in helping to reduce disease
and nematode issues.
SOIL PREPARATION
Garden soil should be prepared in a
similar fashion as for other garden
vegetables (see W 346-A). A fine, but
not powdery, seedbed 6 to 8 inches
deep is ideal. Remember to incorporate
any plant residue or cover crop biomass
a few weeks before planting to allow
time for breakdown of that material.
Lime also should be applied in the fall
or applied and incorporated several
weeks before spring planting to allow
time to alter the soil pH.
INITIAL FERTILIZATION
Tomatoes produce a significant plant
and fruit biomass and require relatively
large amounts of nutrients to achieve
optimum productivity. Fertilizer will
generally be applied before planting
and during crop growth. The pre-
plant fertilizer application often uses a
complete fertilizer (one with all three
primary macronutrients), such as 10-10-
10 or 6-12-12. Your soil test report will
suggest fertilization materials and rates
according to the balance of nutrients
in the soil. Fertilizer should be evenly
spread and incorporated or banded
near transplant roots (see W 346-
C). Make sure not to apply chemical
fertilizer where it can directly contact
young plants because the high salt
level can burn young roots or stems.
OPTIONS FOR PREVENTATIVE
WEED CONTROL
Cultural practices
Weeds are one of the largest
challenges in the home garden, so a
combination of control measures is
best. Cultural practices to prevent weed
issues rely on removing annual weeds
before they have a chance to mature
and produce seeds. Likewise, perennial
weeds may be physically pulled and
should be completely removed to
ensure that rhizomes (plant stems that
can produce new weed plants) are not
able to remain and cause additional
problems.
Other practices that can reduce
weed pressures in the home garden
are mulching (discussed below) and
appropriate uses of cover crops which
can cover the ground and outcompete
weeds. Solarization, or the heating of
soil by covering with plastic sheeting,
can also be a tool to reduce weed
seeds and subsequent weed and
disease issues. All of these tactics are
presented in more detail in W 346-D
“The Tennessee Vegetable Garden:
Plant Management Practices.”
Chemical control
Herbicides are not often used in home
gardens because of the low number of
products available to consumers and
the challenge in using these products
in gardens where many crops are
being produced across several seasons.
Some pre-emergence (applied before
weed seeds germinate) herbicide
products may be useful if application
rate and timing are carefully followed.
See UT Extension publication W 245
“Common Herbicides for Fruit and
Vegetable Weed Control” for more
details. Post-emergence products are
more challenging to use because of
their broad range of activity and the
risk of overspray or drift onto garden
vegetables. Additionally, tomato plants
are one of the most sensitive crops to
herbicide damage and can be severely
harmed by small amounts of herbicide
drift that may not damage other
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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nearby crops. Use caution in managing
any nearby lawn or garden area where
there is any chance that spray drift or
herbicide residue in soil could contact
garden tomatoes.
MULCHING
Mulching materials, such as straw,
leaves, grass clippings or compost
can be applied after planting. When
applied 3 to 6 inches thick, these
mulches provide weed control for most
annual weeds, moderate soil moisture
levels, and reduce some disease
problems. Organic mulches (from
previously living things, not meaning
USDA-certified organic) are often not
applied at planting because they can
cool early season soil temperatures
by blocking sunlight from warming
the soil. It may be best to apply them
after the plants are established and soil
temperatures have warmed. Organic
mulches can be an asset in the heat of
summer by moderating and cooling
soil temperatures. See W 346-D for
additional information on mulching.
Inorganic or plastic mulches can also
provide benefits to home garden
tomato production. Black is the most
common plastic color because it
prevents weed growth while warming
up the soil in the early season to
aid in early growth. As with organic
mulches, plastic mulches moderate soil
moisture levels and also reduce some
risks of leaf diseases by reducing soil
splashed on leaves from precipitation.
Install 4-foot-wide strips of plastic in
the row area and seal the edges with
about 6 inches of soil about two weeks
before the planned transplanting date.
Plastic mulch is a great addition to
raised beds because the two methods
increase early season drainage and
soil warming. Install plastic after lime
and fertilizer applications have been
completed. It is essential to also install
drip irrigation under the plastic mulch
because it is impermeable to rainfall.
Tomatoes are planted through slits cut
in the plastic. Tomato stakes also can
be driven through the plastic, but be
careful to avoid the underlying drip line
(Figure 4).
PLANTING
Garden layout
It is best to plan the planting
arrangement and measure distances
between rows and plants ahead of time
(Table 2). The distance between plants
in the row (in-row spacing) depends on
the type of tomatoes being grown and
the pruning methods that will be used.
Determinate varieties do not grow as
tall as indeterminate and can normally
be spaced closer in the row. Gardeners
can chose to plant at a wider in-row
Figure 4. These young tomatoes in a 2015 trial at the UT Plateau AgResearch and Education Center illustrate dierent mulching techniques
used with drip irrigation and the Florida weave support system.
Tomato type In-row spacing Between-row spacing
Determinate 18-24 inches 48-60 inches
Indeterminate 24-36 inches 60-72 inches
Table 2. Plant spacing estimates for garden tomatoes.
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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spacing to allow easier access. Pruning
will be discussed in detail below and
is commonly used to manage growth
in indeterminate tomatoes. Between-
row spacing can be related to the
type of tillage equipment being used
and can be wider if needed. Keep in
mind, though, that wider plant and
row spacing will also mean more space
open for weed growth.
Planting techniques
When soil is properly prepared and
the threat of spring frost is passed
(Table 3), tomatoes transplants can be
planted in the garden. Young plants
should be around 6 to 10 inches tall and
properly hardened o at transplanting.
In well-prepared soil, a hole is dug deep
enough to cover the root ball of the
plant. If transplants have been grown
in fibrous containers that are planted
rather than removed, make sure that all
parts of the container are covered with
soil to prevent water loss from exposed
edges. Often, a soluble starter fertilizer
will be added to the planting hole to
provide moisture and nutrition for the
young transplant.
Tall, leggy plants are a challenge in
the home garden. It may be best to
install the support system (Figure 5)
at planting to support the tall plants
and plant them at a normal depth.
Some gardeners make a trench to lay a
portion of the stem horizontally under
the soil or they bury the plant extra
deep. While roots will emerge from
these buried stems, such practices can
lead to stem breakage or lower soil
temperature, aeration or nutrients for
the deeply planted roots. Additionally,
both of these practices will negate the
impact of grafted rootstocks if grafted
plants are used. The best practice
is to select and plant healthy and
appropriately sized tomato plants.
WATER
MANAGEMENT
For best growth, keep the soil in the
root zone moist enough to prevent
wilting of tomatoes. This is especially
important soon after transplanting
when the plant is transitioning to
garden conditions. Garden tomatoes
will generally require 1 to 1.5 inches of
water per week, but this number can
change according to environmental
conditions and plant size. Managing
Figure 5. Florida weave support system being used on garden tomatoes. Three layers of twine have been installed in this image.
Location Bristol Chattanooga Clarksville Crossville Jackson Knoxville Memphis Mountain
City
Nashville
Last spring
frost
May 3 April 17 April 27 May 10 April 19 April 28 April 9 May 26 April 21
Table 3. Spring planting dates with only a 10 percent chance of temperatures lower than 32 F after that date as determined by 30-year
NOAA weather data from local stations.
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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water in garden tomatoes is based on
knowing the rainfall received on your
site and then applying water if rainfall is
not sucient.
Most years in Tennessee there will be
periods of the spring, summer and
early fall when rainfall is insucient
or inconsistent for the best tomato
plant growth. Tracking the volume over
the season will help make irrigation
practices more precise. When irrigating,
it is best to apply 1/2 to 3/4 inch of
water twice a week rather than the full
amount in one irrigation event. This
will reduce runo and provide more
consistent soil moisture but provide
enough water to wet the soil for several
inches. Likewise, it is best to deliver
irrigation to the root zone of the plants
through trickle or drip irrigation rather
than overhead watering. Drip irrigation
will be more ecient in water use and
will keep the plants leaves dry. Soaker
hoses are also common in the home
garden and deliver water directly to
plant roots. They can be purchased or
constructed from used garden hose.
Soaker hoses can be cost-eective
and versatile in the garden, but they
do not deliver water as evenly as drip
irrigation lines. If sprinkler irrigation is
the only option, apply at a time when
leaves will dry before nightfall to lower
the risk of leaf disease.
PLANT MANAGEMENT
— SUPPORT AND
PRUNING
Proper plant management and
support are needed to produce both
the best yield and the best quality
tomatoes (See W 346-D for additional
information on pruning and support).
An added bonus of good plant
management and support is that it can
save time during picking.
Plant support
Tomatoes are normally supported
with stakes or cages. Staking can be
carried out for individual tomato plants
or installed and tied as a row (see
below). If stakes are used, they should
be durable hardwood about 4 to 5 feet
tall for determinate types or 6 to 8 feet
for indeterminate tomatoes. Aim to
have about 1 foot of the stake length in
the ground for stability. For individual
staking, tie plants loosely to the stakes
at 8- to 10-inch intervals. Make sure to
use cloth or a string material that will
not damage the stems as the plant
weight increases. Stakes also can be
placed every two plants and twine
woven around them to form a basket
that supports all the plants in the
row. This method is sometimes called
the “Florida Weave.” String is tightly
stretched horizontally along both sides
of the stakes at the same height, with
plants held between the string layers
(see Figure 6). Twine is wound around
each middle stake to maintain tension
and tied o at the end stakes. These
layers of support are repeated every
8 to 10 inches vertically as the plant
grows (see Figure 5).
When cages are used for support, they
must be strong enough to support
the plant for the entire growing
season. Cages can be purchased or
constructed at home with materials
Figure 6. This image shows two large lateral branches (suckers) that can be removed to maintain a single stem on an indeterminate tomato
plant. Notice that the bloom and young fruit are clearly on the main stem of the tomato.
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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such as concrete reinforcing wire. As
a guide in cage construction, a 6-foot
length of wire will form a cage about
21 inches in diameter. Cages should be
well anchored in the soil to support the
weight of the plants and fruit and allow
access to ripe fruit for removal without
damage.
Pruning
The method of pruning and plant
management depends on the type of
tomato and the method of support.
Indeterminate tomatoes that produce
fruit clusters and leaves throughout
the season are commonly trained to
a single stake or grown in a cage. If
stakes are used, lateral branches (called
suckers) are often removed to create
a plant with a single main stem (see
Figure 6). Suckers can compete for
plant resources and be a challenge to
support on a single stake. The removal
of suckers is less commonly practiced if
tomato cages are used. Yields per plant
are usually higher in a cage than when
supported by stakes because fruit is
harvested from both the main stem
and lateral branches. Fruit may ripen
slower in cages, but sunscald (fruit
tissue death due to high temperatures)
is often reduced.
Determinate tomato plants
are generally pruned less than
indeterminate plants, and some
gardeners chose not to prune them
at all. Because their main stem stops
growing at a certain point, many of
the fruit of a determinate tomato
are produced on lateral branches.
Sometimes a few leaves and lateral
branches are removed below the first
flower cluster because it can increase
early yield and fruit size. It is best to
leave one or two suckers below the first
flower to avoid leaf curling, stunting
and reduced yield. Determinate plants
can be challenging to train to a single
stake because of lateral branches, but
cages and the Florida Weave system
work well.
NUTRIENT
MANAGEMENT AND
FERTILIZATION
In addition to initial fertilization
discussed above, tomatoes need
adequate nutrition throughout the
growing season to produce well.
“Sidedressing” is the application of
fertilizer in a small furrow 2-4 inches
to the side of the row during plant
growth because all the nutrient needs
of tomatoes cannot be well supplied by
only a pre-plant fertilizer application.
The timing of this is application of
fertilizer is often made after the first
cluster of fruit has set and young
tomatoes are the size of a golf ball or
slightly smaller. Timing is important
because young tomatoes that are
supplied with too much nitrogen will
produce much stem and leaf growth
which can slow or reduce fruit set and
yield. Often these sidedressings are
repeated once a month while the plant
is bearing.
One of the most important concepts
for home tomato growers is calculating
fertilizer needs across the whole
season. The most common nutrients
applied in a sidedressing are nitrogen
and potassium. Nitrogen is needed for
many plant growth processes while
potassium is important for many
reactions in the plant and for high fruit
quality. An example is provided below.
Common targets for nitrogen and
potash (K2O) over a season are often
around 0.5 lb/100 sq. ft. and 0.7 lb/100
sq. ft, respectively. If 3 lbs. of 10-10-10
(10% N, K2O) was added at planting to
100 sq. ft., then 0.3 pounds of N and
K2O (3 lbs x 10%) were applied.
Two subsequent monthly sidedressings
of 1.5 lbs. of 6-12-12 (6% N, 12% K2O)
per 100 sq. ft. beginning after the fruit
set on the first cluster would provide
a total of 0.18 lb N and 0.36 lb. K2O
to come quite close to N and K2O
seasonal targets. Recommendations
in the soil test report also provide
fertilization tactics throughout the
growing season.
COMMON
CHALLENGES IN
HOME TOMATO
PRODUCTION
PHYSIOLOGICAL ISSUES
- Blossom end rot (BER) involves the
death of cells at the flower end of the
fruit followed by decay (Figure 7).
This condition is related to inadequate
calcium levels in the developing fruit.
Maintaining proper pH can reduce BER
risk because lime (calcium carbonate)
Figure 7. Cracking (L) and blossom end rot (R) on tomato fruit. Edward Sikora,
Auburn University, Bugwood.org
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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supplies calcium while increasing the
pH and making it easier for the plant
to take up calcium. Calcium nitrate
fertilizer can also be added to the soil
as a means of preventing BER and
should be applied as a sidedressing
three to four weeks after transplanting,
but use caution due to the possibility
of oversupplying nitrogen as presented
above. Providing uniform soil moisture
by using irrigation and mulches is
also a benefit because calcium must
dissolve in soil water to be taken up by
plants. Tomatoes may also have less
BER if they are not pruned too heavily
or excessively fertilized. Sometimes,
BER aects only the early fruit and
clears up without action.
Misshapen fruit is often related to poor
pollination, which can lead to dierent
growth rates in areas of the fruit.
Examples include catfacing, puness
and odd fruit shapes. Temperatures
that are cool (below 50 F), especially
at night can lead to poor pollination,
but warm temperatures, fertilization
or humidity issues can also impact
pollination.
Cracking (Figure 7) can appear as
concentric rings around the top of the
fruit or cracking down the fruit. It can
be related to variety characteristics,
but is most often linked with irregular
patterns in growth and/or water issues.
Swings in moisture or nutrition can
both lead to cracking, which is best
prevented by maintaining optimum
and consistent moisture. Modern
varieties are less prone to cracking than
heirlooms.
HARVEST,
HANDLING
AND STORAGE
Most home garden tomatoes are
harvested fully ripe. This practice will
enable full flavor development but also
reduces shelf life and produces fruit
that are more susceptible to damage
during handling. Fruit harvested at
60-80 percent full color will ripen well
in the home if handled correctly. Cherry
tomatoes are often picked slightly
before full maturity to prevent cracking
that can occur quickly after ripening.
Most gardeners removes the fruit from
the vine while leaving the calyx (small
green leaves and stem) on the plant.
Removing the calyx and stem can
reduce fruit punctures during picking
and handling. Tomatoes are best picked
into shallow boxes and placed one to
two layers deep to prevent damage.
Fully ripe tomatoes are generally of
the highest quality when stored at
room temperatures in the home and
eaten within 2 to 3 days. So, it is best
to harvest tomatoes from the garden
when they will be consumed in a few
days. Tomatoes are chilling sensitive
and refrigeration can cause flavor loss.
It is common for newer hybrid cultivars
to retain a firmer texture and avoid
decay for longer periods after harvest
than many heirloom cultivars. If frost is
on its way at the end of the season and
tomato fruit is still on the plants, they
can be harvested green to slowly ripen
in the home. They may not be quite as
flavorful as an August garden tomato,
but they can be an excellent addition
to a fall salad, providing a final taste of
summer for the year!
ADDITIONAL RESOURCES AND REFERENCES
Contact your county Extension oce with questions about managing soil or plants in the home garden.
UT Extension publication PB 595 “You Can Control Garden Insects.”
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/PB595.pdf
UT Extension publication W 316 “Home Vegetable Garden Disease Control.”
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/W316.pdf
UT Extension publication SP 277-W “Foliar Diseases of Tomatoes.”
extension.tennessee.edu/publications/Documents/SP277-W.pdf
Ohio State Univeristy publication “Growing Tomatoes in the Home Garden.”
ohioline.osu.edu/hyg-fact/1000/pdf/1624.pdf
University of Kentucky publication “Vegetable Cultivars for Kentucky Gardens — 2013.”
www2.ca.uky.edu/agc/pubs/id/id133/id133.pdf
BACKYARD VEGETABLES | THE TENNESSEE VEGETABLE GARDEN - Growing Tomatoes
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