The Guide to Files and Filing

The Guide to

Files and Filing

ATG-4154

www.crescenttool.com

Crescent® and Nicholson® are registered trademarks of Apex Brands, Inc.,

A Division of Apex Tool Group, LLC. Specifications subject to change without notice.

Apex Tool Group, LLC

1000 Lufkin Road, Apex, NC 27539

Introduction

Choosing the right file can be confusing; with so many sizes,

shapes and cuts available it is difficult to decide the right one for

the job. The range of Crescent Nicholson

files covers every job

task requirement. This booklet has been specially produced to

simplify file selection and application for any file user.

History The file has been with man now

for many years and one of the

first recordings is in the Bible

during the reign of King Saul.This

would be approximately 1090 BC

and at that time files would have

been used for sharpening various

types of primitive tools. From the

ﬁrst ﬁles, the development and

evolution can be traced from stone

implements to ﬁles with teeth

running at right angles across the

ﬁle blank to present day quality machine-produced ﬁles. The ﬁrst

attempt to cut ﬁles by machine was approximately 1490 AD and

resulted from an invention by Leonardo Da Vinci. However, the

ﬁrst machine which actually cut ﬁles successfully was made by

the Frenchman, Chopitel, in 1750.

At this time, files were made from mild material and did not

require annealing. To produce a hardened surface, various

preparations were used to carburize the file teeth. But it was the

inventions of such men as Bernot, Nicholson, Whipple, and Weed

that provided machines capable of producing better files than

those produced by hand.

How a File is Made

Today, various kinds of materials,

product finishes, and working

conditions make file development

an industrial science. File

manufacture involves the study

of file steels, file design, and file

performance for all file applications.

File Steel: Raw stock is cut to

proper length from various widths,

thicknesses, and cross sections, such as

rectangular, square, triangular, round, and half round.

Rough Shaping: The blank is punched to shape or is heated and

forged with drop hammers and rollers to shape the tang and

point.

Annealing: The forged blank is heated to an elevated temperature

and then cooled slowly under controlled conditions to soften

the steel for tooth cutting and to make internal steel structure

uniform.

Final Shaping: The annealed blanks are ground or milled to

produce a surface necessary for the uniform formation of the

teeth. This is followed by drawfiling that produces the perfectly

true flat or curved surface necessary for the uniform formation

of the teeth.

Forming Teeth: The teeth are

formed by a rapidly reciprocating

chisel that strikes successive blows

on the blank. The hardened chisel

cuts into the soft blank, displacing

and raising the steel into the desired

tooth structure.

Hardening: The file is then hardened

by heating it in a molten bath to a predetermined temperature.

This is followed by immersing the file in a quenching solution.

This combination of heating and cooling under carefully controlled

conditions brings the file to the maximum hardness to the very top

of the cutting edges.

Finishing: The file is cleaned and sharpened by bead blasting.

The tang is reheated to give strength without brittleness. It is

then given a series of tests by trained inspectors, and is oiled

to prevent rust.

Rectangle Square Triangle Round

File Terminology

This section of the booklet will help you understand the file and

the terms used. Each part of the file has a name and there are

many different shapes and sizes of files. Furthermore, there are

varying types of file cuts.

Type: The cross-sectional shape or style

of the file (i. e. quadrangular, circular,

triangular, or irregular.) These sections

are further classified according to their

contours (i.e. blunt, taper, etc.)

Blunt: A file whose edges are parallel

from end to end and of constant width.

Taper: The reduction in cross section of

the file from its heel to the point. A file

may taper with width, in thickness, or in both.

Coarseness: The number of teeth per

inch length of the file.

Cut: The character of the file teeth with respect to the coarseness

(bastard, second-cut, and smooth)

A Single-Cut: A single set of parallel,

diagonal rows of teeth. Single-cut files

are often used with light pressure to

produce a smooth surface finish or to

put a keen edge on knives, shears, or saws.

A Double-Cut: Two sets of diagonal

rows of teeth. The second set of teeth

is cut in the opposite diagonal direction,

and on top of the first set. The first set

of teeth is known as the overcut while the second is called the

upcut. The upcut is finer than the overcut. The double-cut file

is used with heavier pressure than the single-cut and removes

material faster from the workpiece.

Length

Point Belly Heel Tang

Rasp-Cut: A series of individual teeth

that are formed by a single-pointed tool.

This produces a rough-cut and is used

primarily on wood, hooves, aluminum, and lead.

A Curved-Cut/Mill Tooth: Teeth are

arranged in curved contours across the

file face. Normally used in automotive

body shops for smoothing body panels.

Plater’s Rasp: A Rasp File combination

that is used primarily by farriers in the

trimming of horses’ hooves.

Woodchuck: A multi-purpose wood

chisel/rasp combination tool used by

cabinetmakers, homebuilders, and

construction workers.

Bastard: File coarseness between “coarse and second cut.”

Back: The convex side of a half-round or other similarly shaped file.

Edge: The intersection of two adjacent

faces of the file.

Safe Edge: A smooth or uncut edge of the file.

Pinning: Filings wedged between the file

teeth.

Shelling: The breaking of file teeth, usually

caused by using too much pressure reverse

filing, filing sharp corners, or edges.

Handle: A holder into which the tang of the

file fits. If the file has an integral holder this

is known as a solid handle file.

Filing is an industrial art. Grip, stroke and pressure may vary to

fit the job. There are three elemental ways a file can be put to

work. They are:

Straight Filing: This consists of pushing the file lengthwise-

straight ahead or slightly diagonally-across the workpiece.

Draw Filing: This consists of grasping the file at each end,

pushing and drawing it across the workpiece.

Lathe Filing: This consists of stroking the file against work

revolving in a lathe.

When holding a workpiece in a vise for normal filing, the vise

should be about elbow height. When there is a great deal of

heavy filing it is better to have the work slightly lower. If the work

is of fine and delicate nature, the work can be raised to eye level.

For work that could become damaged in the vise through

pressure, a pair of protectors made of zinc, copper or aluminum

sheet should be used between the workpiece and vise jaws.

The Grip

For files needing two-handed operation, the handle should be

grasped in one hand and the point of the file in the other hand.

The file handle should be rested in the palm with the thumb

pointing along the top of the handle and the fingers gripping the

underside.

The point of the file should be

grasped between the thumb

and the first two fingers with

the thumb being on the top of

the file.

When heavy filing strokes are

required, the thumb on the point

is normally in line with the file, the tip of the thumb pointed

forward. For lighter strokes however, the thumb can be turned to

as much as right angles to the direction of the stroke

If the file is being used one-handed for filing pins, dies, or edged

tools not being held in a vise, the forefinger and not the thumb is

placed on top of the handle in line with the file.

Choosing the Right File

To achieve the desired results it is essential that the right file

be used for the job. In selecting the right file the user should

consider the shape, size and coarseness of the file.

The size and the coarseness of

the file are directly related, so the

larger the file the more stock it will

remove and the smaller the file the

finer the finish it will achieve.

The coarser the cut of the file, the rougher the finish of the work.

Therefore, the size of the file and the grade of its cut must be

taken into account against the amount of stock to be removed

and the fineness of finish that is required.

Generally speaking, bastard and second-cut grades of double-

cut files would be chosen for the fast removal of stock while

single-cut files and smooth double-cut files would be chosen

for finishing. It is however almost impossible to lay down exact

guidelines for the right file for the job, but using the basic facts

given here the user should have a reasonably clear picture in

mind, the nature, size of the work, the kind of finish required, the

working tolerance allowed, and the risks (if any) of spoiling the work.

In addition to the amount of stock to be removed, the contour of its

removal is equally important and is determined by the shape of the

file. For example, a triangular file should be used on acute internal

angles, to clear out square corners and in sharpening saw teeth.

A Flat File should be used

for general-purpose work,

a Square File for enlarging

rectangular holes and a Round

File for enlarging round holes.

A Half-Round File can be used

for dual purposes, the flat face

for filing flat surfaces and the

curved face for grooves.

Did

You

Know

American pattern

files have 3 grades of

courseness: Bastard,

Second, and Smooth cut

Round

Rectangular

Triangle

Rectangular with

Rounded Edges

Lathe Filing

When filing work revolving in a lathe,

the file should not be held rigid or

stationary, but stroked constantly.

A slight gliding or lateral motion

assists the file to clear itself and

eliminate ridges and grooves.

While a Mill File is capable of good

lathe filing, there is a special long angle lathe file with teeth cut

at a much larger angle. This provides a cleaner shearing, self-

clearing file, eliminates drag or tear, overcomes chatter and

reduces clogging. Uncut edges on this file protect any shoulders

on the work, which are not filed, and the dog, which holds the

workpiece.

Lathe filing is usually employed for fitting shafts. Where stock is

to be removed, a 12"/300mm or 14"/350mm long angle Lathe File

is preferable. This file will provide the finish suitable for a drive

fit. For a running fit a Mill File will provide a smooth finish. Where

a fine finish is required a Swiss Pattern and or Pillar file in No. 4

should be used.

Recommended Surface Feet Per Minute For Lathe Filing

Many Lathe Filers make a practice of not using a new file for work

requiring an extremely fine finish.

In using the long angle Lathe File,

care should be taken at shaft ends

as this fast cutting file may cut

too deeply. Don’t run a hand over

lathe work, as oil and moisture can coat the surface and make

it difficult for the file to take hold. For lathe work that has oval,

eliptical or irregularly round form, the finer swiss pattern files are

most satisfactory.

Carrying the File

For normal flat filing, the

operator should aim to carry

the file forward on an almost

straight line in the same plane,

changing its course enough

to prevent grooving. Too

much pressure often results

in a rocking motion causing a

rounded surface.

Keep the File Cutting

Different materials of course require different touches; however,

in general, just enough pressure should be applied to keep the file

cutting. If allowed to slide over the harder metals the teeth of the

file rapidly become dull, and if they are overloaded by too much

pressure, they are likely to chip or clog.

On the reverse stroke, it is

best to lift the file clear of the

workpiece, except on very soft

metals. Even then pressure

should be very light, never

more than the weight of the

file itself.

Draw Filing

Draw Filing consists of grasping the file firmly at each end and

alternatively pushing and pulling the file sideways across the

work. Since files are made primarily to cut on a longitudinal

forward stroke, a file with a

short-angle cut should never

be used, as it will score and

scratch instead of shaving and

shearing. When accomplished

properly, draw filing produces a

finer finish than straight filing.

Normally, a standard Mill

Bastard File is used for draw

filing, but where a considerable amount of stock has to be

removed, a flat or hand file (double cut) will work faster. However,

this roughing down leaves small ridges that will have to be

smoothed by finishing with a single cut Mill File.

Don’t apply too much

pressure, or too little,

on the forward stroke.

Material: Distance:

Cast Iron 150

Annealed Tool Steel 175

Machinery Steel 350

Soft Yellow Brass 500

8 9

Depending on the shape, there is a variety of Crescent Nicholson

files. Suggested files are found in the “job by job” file selector of

this book, or you may contact your Crescent Nicholson

customer

service representative.

Filing Stainless Steel

The use of stainless steel and alloy steels has created other filing

techniques. These steels with hard chromium and nickel content

are tough and dense. This causes them to be abrasive, which

shortens the life of the normal file.

To overcome these problems, files have been developed with

good wearing qualities. These files, when used with a light

pressure and a slow, steady stroke, will remove metal and provide

a good finish.

Filing Aluminum

Aluminum is soft and is difficult to file; file teeth clog even under

moderate pressure. Filing aluminum is divided into:

• Filing roughness from aluminum castings

• Filing sheet and bar aluminum

• Filing aluminum alloys

To produce a good finish, the

aluminum type A file has been

developed. The file upcut is

deep with an open throat, the

overcut fine which produces

small scallops on the upcut. This breaks up the filings and allows

the file to clear. This also overcomes chatter and prevents too

large a bite. By using a shearing stroke toward the left, a good

finish can be obtained.

Filing Brass

Brass is difficult to file because

it is softer than steel, but tough.

This demands teeth that are

sharp and sturdy, cut to prevent

grooving and running the file off the work.

The Magicut

file has a short upcut angle and a fine long angle

overcut which produces small scallops to break up filings and

enable the file to clear. With pressure, the sharp high-cut teeth

bite deep. With less pressure, the short upcut angle smoothes.

Filing Different Metals

Different metals vary greatly in character and

properties. Some are softer than others, some are

more ductile, and so on. The nature of the metal has

to be taken carefully into account when choosing the

right file and applying it to the job. For instance, a soft ductile

metal requires a keen file and only light pressure must be applied

during filing if the work is not to be deformed. Conversely, a hard

and less ductile metal may require a file with duller teeth to avoid

them biting too deep and breaking off when pressure is applied.

When filing a material the user can normally feel whether or not

he or she is using the right file, and filing in the correct manner.

All things being correct, a smooth cutting action and a good clean

finish on the work is achieved. If there is stubborn resistance,

chances are the wrong file is being used, the file is damaged,

or the wrong method is being used.

Filing Rough Castings

Snagging castings and

removing fins, spurs, and other

projections is hard on normal

files. Their teeth are for fast

cutting and do not possess the

ruggedness for driving against

hard projections and edges.

This filing engages only a few

teeth, thus putting a strain on

each. For such work, it is better

to use a Flat Aluminum Type A

File or a Half Round Bastard File with

sturdier teeth and heavy set edges to

resist shelling or breaking out.

Filing Die Castings

Like foundry castings, die

castings usually have sharp

corners, webs, fins, or

flashings which may damage

a normal file. In addition,

die castings consist of

magnesium, zinc, aluminum,

alloy, or similar combinations

of metal which have the

tendency to clog regular files.

Filing Bronze (Copper, Tin, or

Other Alloying Elements)

Bronze is similar in nature to

brass in some aspects, but varies

according to the percentages of alloying elements.

Average sharpness of the file is satisfactory for some bronzes,

while for others, a file that can maintain its sharpness for longer

periods is required. Thus, for the harder bronzes, a file with a

more acute angle at the top of the tooth is desirable. This is

known as a thin topped tooth.

The direction of stroke of the file should be crossed frequently to

avoid grooving with bronze and brass.

Filing Wrought Iron

Wrought iron is relatively simple to file. It is soft but only

moderately ductile so it is not necessary for a file to be very

sharp to obtain good results.

Filing Plastics

Hard plastics are dense and

brittle, and material is removed as

light powder. The abrasiveness of

hard plastics requires files with

high sharp teeth. Soft plastics

are filed in shreds so shear tooth

files should be used for this

application.

For almost every density material, there is a Crescent Nicholson

file that will meet the required application. Suggested files

are found in the “job by job” file selector of this book, or you

may contact your Crescent Nicholson

Tools customer service

representative.

Filing Soft Materials

For soft materials such as

aluminum, brass, copper, plastics,

hard rubber, and wood, a Shear

Tooth file provides fast material

removal with good smoothing qualities. The combination of the

single cut and the long angle helps the shear tooth file to clear.

Because of the long angle the file has a tendency to run to the

left on narrow surfaces. This can be overcome by filing with a

diagonal stroke to the right.

Precision Filing

For filing such as that employed by the

instrument industry, there is a range of

Swiss Pattern files. The delicate precision

work calls for these files to be made to

exacting measurements and finer cuts.

The flat precision file should be used with

a slow smooth stroke, moving the file

laterally along the work on the forward

stroke. In using round or half round

types, the filing should be clockwise to ensure a deeper cut and a

smoother finish.

Saw Filing

Efficient saw filing demands, first of all, a steady hand and a good

file. Also, the file must be correct in design, cut, and size for the

type of saw and the type of teeth to be filed.

The stroke must be absolutely

level, as the slightest rocking will

affect the cutting edge of the saw-

tooth. The file must be lifted off

the work when drawing back for

the next stroke.

The teeth have to be set at the

correct angle in relation to each

other. This is best done with a

“Saw Set” usually before filing.

However, some filers prefer to do this after the saw has been

filed. To file saw teeth, provisions must be made to hold the

saw. A saw vise should be used, to be sure there is no chatter or

vibration in the saw. This will shorten the life of the file.

Sharpening Hand Saws

Handsaws of two types, the crosscut and the rip, must be reset,

normally every fourth or fifth filing. Check that teeth are of equal

height. This can be accomplished by passing the file lightly

lengthwise along the tops of the

teeth. Some may be flattened, others

are hardly touched. The flattened

teeth will require more filing to put

them in shape.

Check that the teeth

are of equal height.

Taper (Triangular) Saw Files

Filing Chain

Saw Teeth

Rounded hooded

chain saws:

These type of chain saws

require round chain saw files

specifically designed for the

task. These files are available

in various diameters to fit a sizes of round hooded chain saws.

Place the file against the beveled cutting surface of the teeth

that face both sides and provide their own clearance at an angle

of 20° to 45° with the saw blade, depending on manufacturer’s

specifications. The direction of the filing stroke is off the cutting

edge. It is essential that the file be held level and it should be

pressed back and slightly up during the filing stroke. Every other

tooth is filed, and then the chain saw is reversed. The depth

gauges of this type of saw control the depth of the cut that the

saw will take. As the cutting teeth are sharpened, they become

lower, and it is necessary to lower the depth gauges an equal

extent. The difference in height between cutting teeth and depth

gauge should be between 0.020"/0.51mm and 0.030"/0.76mm.

File the depth gauge only as required to maintain dimensions

between cutter and gauge as cutter is filed back. Do not file off

too much. This overloads motor and chain and the chain will clog.

Use a Depth Gauge, Chainsaw File, or a Mill File.

Sharpening Circular Saws

Before removing the saw blades

from saw, lower the blade until

only 1/64" (0.40mm) protrudes

above the table. Place a file over

the opening in the table and by

hand, revolve the saw backward

against the file. Be sure that

the file touches each tooth top.

Remove the saw blade and sharpen.

Some large size circular saws may be sharpened without

removing them from the saw as long as there is no chatter. Large

circular saws with insert type teeth are sharpened with a Mill File.

The larger the saw, the larger the file.

Filing The Hand Crosscut Saw

The teeth of the crosscut saws cut with their edges

and points: edges must be beveled and sharp. Start

at the point of the saw and work towards the handle.

Place the file in the gullet to the left of the first tooth set away

from you. Hold the file level with the angle of the saw blade.

At this angle, it should touch on the bevels of both teeth. When

filing the flattened teeth, only half should be filed away at a time.

Miss the next gullet and file the one following until every other

gullet has been filed.

Reverse the saw and begin process from second gullet away

from saw point.

Filing Hand Ripsaws

For pointing and filing, follow the same procedure as the crosscut

saw. It must be remembered that the rip saw is filed so that the

tooth points do the cutting, not the edges. Teeth should be filed at

right angles to the blade. Every other tooth is brought to a square

edge, the saw is reversed and the remaining teeth filed.

Number of

Saw Points

Files Recommended

4 7" Heavy or 8" Regular Taper

5 7" Regular Taper or 10" Slim

5 1/2 7" Regular Taper or 10" Slim

6 5" or 6" Regular Taper 7" or 8" Slim

7 6" or 7" Slim

8 4" Regular Taper, 6" Slim, 7" X Slim, 8" XX Slim

9 5" Slim, 6" X Slim, 7" XX Slim

10 3 1/2" Regular Taper or 5" Slim, 5" or 6" X Slim

11 3" Regular Taper or 4" Slim, 5" X Slim, 6" XX Slim

12 3" Regular Taper or 5" X Slim

13, 14 4" X Slim or 5" XX Slim

15, 16 4" XX Slim

The Wood Rasp is a coarser cut than

the cabinet rasp and is made primarily

for the rapid removal of stock. For finer

woodwork, the Cabinet Rasp provides a

means of bringing mortise-and-tenon

joints to a proper fit. The Horse Rasp is

used for shoeing horses. The Plater’s

Rasp is available for light hooves such as racehorses.

Woodchuck

Woodchuck Rasp is a Chisel/

Rasp combination tool used for

a variety of wood working tasks. Each tool features a flat Wood

Rasp on one side and a Half-Round Wood Rasp on the other.

There are edge teeth for those hard to get spots. The chisel point

features an extremely sharp, polished and ground blade.

Care of the File

The teeth of the file should be

protected when the file is not in use

by hanging it in a rack or keeping it

in a drawer with wooden divisions.

Files should always be kept clear of

water or grease, since this impairs

the filing action. It is advisable to

wrap the file in a cloth for protection

when it is carried in a toolbox.

The file teeth should be kept clean

at all times by using a file card, or a

wire file brush, to clear the grooves

between the teeth.

Safety

For safety reasons, a file should never be used without a tight

fitting handle. Serious accidents can result if the handle becomes

detached exposing the sharp point of the tang.

Crescent Nicholson

offers a variety of different size

file handles produced in traditional wood, or from

modern plastics. If you need help in selecting which

handle is right for your file, contact your Crescent

Nicholson

customer service representative today.

Sharpening Crosscut Saws

The crosscut saw has two types

of teeth, cutters and rakers. The

cutters do the cutting, the rakers

clear the cut. This is filed at an

angle of 45° from the filer. This

permits access to cutters and

enables the teeth to be filed at the correct angle.

Teeth should be checked for levelness, the raker teeth being

between 1/100"/0.25mm and 1/64"/0.40mm below level of

cutting teeth. The filer should file all cutter teeth to a point. The

saw is placed vertically and the file used across the rakers.

Should the gullets of the teeth require deepening, a Round file or

a Mill File with round edge can be used.

Sharpening Tools and Implements

There are many tools and

implements in industry, agriculture,

and gardening that require regular

sharpening. Such tools may be filed

towards or away from the edge,

the former for the early part of

the task and the latter for the light

finishing touches. For coarse steel

cutting edges for hoes, ploughs etc.,

home and garden files, as well as

axe and handy files, are available.

For harder carbon steels in cutter

knives, shears etc., the second cut

or Smooth Mill provides a sure, but

smoother bite. It is essential that

the work glaze be removed in the

first few strokes, so apply extra

pressure in very slow, deliberate

strokes at the beginning.

Rasps

Also available are rasp combinations known as four-in-hand

and shoe rasp.

There are 3 types of

classified Rasps:

Wood, Cabinet and Horse

Did

You

Know

Job by Job File Selector

Type: Description:

Aluminum Alloy Flat Bastard File, Aluminum File, Magicut

Auto Body Bodifiles

Babbit Flat Babbitt, Curved Tooth, Flat Files

Bearing, Brass Magicut

Bearing, Bronze Flat Bastard File, Magicut

Beveling Flat Bastard, Mill File

Blacksmith

Rasp and Flat Bastard, Half-Round Bastard,

Flat Bastard File

Bolt threads Taper, Mill or Knife File, Mill Bastard

Brass Flat Bastard File, Magicut

, Curved Tooth

Bronze Flat Bastard File, Magicut

Cabinet, Wood Half Round File, Cabinet Rasp or Woodchuck

Cast Iron

Flat, Half-Round, Square or Round File,

according to shape of material

Casting Rough Flat Bastard File

Contact Points

Mill Bastard, Second Cut, and Tungsten Point

Files

Copper Flat Bastard File, Magicut

Cutter,

Machine Tool

Ground and sharpened by an emery wheel. Can

be filed only when in an annealed condition. Use

file to suit shape or surface.

Cutter, Milling See Cutter, Machine tool

De-Scaling Flat Bastard File

Die Block Flat Bastard File

Die Casting

Flat Bastard File, Half-Round Bastard File, Round

Bastard File, Square Bastard File, or Mill Bastard

File, according to shape of the die casting and

finish desired

Die Forging

Flat Bastard File or Half Round Bastard File,

according to shape of the die forging

Type: Description:

Die Shop Swiss pattern files of appropriate shape

Electric Connections

(Cleaning)

If surface is large, use Mill Bastard File,

otherwise use Tungsten Point File

Fender, Auto Bodifiles

Fiber Flat Bastard File or Rasp

Fine Work Swiss Pattern Files

Finishing

Mill Bastard File. For Lathe Filing, use

Mill Bastard File or Long Angle Lathe File

Foundry Casting Flat Bastard, Mill File

Furniture, Making

Half Round File, Cabinet Rasp, or Mill

Bastard File

Garden Tool Home and Garden File

Grooving

Square Bastard, Round Bastard,

Half-Round Bastard, or Slim Taper,

according to shape of groove

Hand Rubber Flat Bastard File

Hole Round Bastard File or Square Bastard File

Horse-Shoeing Horse Rasp, Plater’s Rasp

Hot Metal, Filing Flat Bastard File

Iron

Bastard-Cut File according to shape

of material

Joint, Mortise and

Tenon

Half Round File or Cabinet Rasp

Key Way Square Bastard or Pillar File

Keys, Filing Warding Bastard File

Knife Mill File

Lathe-Turned Section Mill Bastard File or Long Angle Lathe File

Laminate

Magicut

Laminate File, Plastic File,

Mill Bastard File

Band Saw 6" Regular Tape or 7" Slim Taper File

Cant Saw Mill Bastard File

Chain Saw

Round Chain Saw, Special Square,

Depth Gauge Chain Saw File

Circular Saw Mill Bastard, or Slim Taper Files

Cross-Cut Saw Mill Bastard, Round, or Round Edge Mill File

Hand Saw

Taper

Slim Taper, Extra Slim Taper, or Double Extra Slim File,

according to points of saw. File recommended for saw

points per inch.

Saw points shown in Bold.

• 4 - 7" Heavy or 8" Regular Taper

• 5 - 7" Regular Taper or 10" Slim

• 5 1/2 - 7" Regular Taper or 10" Slim

• 6 - 5" or 6" Regular Taper 7" or 8" Slim

• 7 - 6" or 7" Slim

• 8 - 4" Regular Taper, 6" Slim, 7" X Slim, 8" XX Slim

• 9 - 5" Slim. 6 X Slim, 7" XX Slim

• 10 - 3 1/2" Regular Taper or 5" Slim, 5 or 6" X Slim

• 11 - 3" Regular Taper or 4" Slim, 5" X Slim, 6" XX Slim

• 12 - 3" Regular Taper or 5" X Slim

• 13, 14 - 4" X Slim or 5" XX Slim

• 15, 16 - 4" XX Slim

Wood or Buck Saw

Mill Bastard and Slim Taper Files

Type: Description:

Lawn Mower Mill Bastard File or Handy File

Lock, Mending Warding Bastard File

Machinists’ Work

Machinists’ File such as Flat, Half Round,

Square or Round. Also Mill or Tapers, in cuts

according to work

Millwrights’ Work Flat, Half-Round, Round, Square Mill Files

Model, Metal Swiss Pattern Files

Molded Part Flat Bastard File or Mill Bastard File

Notch Taper or Knife File

Ornaments,

Wood Making

Half Round File, Cabinet Rasp. Round Bastard

Mill Bastard and Slim Taper File

Pattern Making,

Wood

Half Round File, Cabinet

Wood Rasp, Pattern Makers Rasp,

Woodchuck, Round Bastard, Square Bastard,

Mill Bastard and Slim Taper File

Pipe Fitting Half-Round Bastard File

Planer Knife

Carbon Steel

Mill Bastard File

Plastics

Flat Bastard File. Also Mill Bastard File,

Magicut

®,

Plastics File, Laminate File,

sharpened for plastics

Plumbers’ Work Half-Round Bastard

Rotary Mower

Blade

Handy File, Flat Bastard

Rough Filing Bastard File depending on shape to be filed

Slot Knife File, Slim Taper or Warding

Snagging Flat Bastard File

Soft Metal Flat Bastard

Stainless Steel Flat, or Mill File sharpened for stainless

Steel Flat Bastard File

Job by Job File Selector

Type: Description:

Steel Alloy

Use file applicable to the shape of the material.

File steel alloy only when it is annealed

Switch Contacts

Tungsten Point File or Mill Bastard File,

according to surface area of switch contacts

Switch, Electric

Mill Bastard File or Tungsten Point File,

according to size of switch

Template

Flat Bastard File, Half-Round Bastard File,

Mill Bastard File, or Round Bastard File

V-Groove

Files, including Knife, Taper, Slim Taper,

X Slim Taper, XX Slim Taper

Wood Working Half Round File or Cabinet Rasp

Zinc Babbit File

Job by Job File Selector

Saws

Profile Selector for Machinist’s Files

Profile Selector for Special Purpose Files

Cross Section: Name: Shape: Character of Teeth: Taper: General Uses:

Flat Rectangular

Usually Bastard. Also

second-cut and smooth

Taper in width

A general

purpose file

Hand Rectangular

One-edge safe. Bastard

second-cut and smooth

Uniform in width

Finishing flat

surfaces

Warding Thin

Usually Bastard. Also

second-cut and smooth

Width sharply

tapered thick-

ness uniform

Filing and notches in

keys. Narrow work

Square Square

Bastard, second-cut

and smooth

Tapered

Enlarging holes or

recesses mortises,

keyways and splines

Three Square Triangular

Sharp edges. Bastard

second-cut and smooth

Tapered

Filing acute angles,

corners, grooves and

notches

Round Circular

Usually Bastard. Also

second-cut and smooth

Either tapered

“Rat Tail” or

blunt

Enlarging holes;

shaping curved

surfaces

Half Round Third-Circular

Usually Bastard. Also

second-cut and smooth

Uniform in width

Concave corners

crevices, round holes

Knife Knife-Shaped

Usually Bastard. Also

second-cut and smooth

Tapered curving

to a narrow point

Cleaning out acute

angles, corners, slots

Cross Section: Name: Shape: Character of Teeth: Taper: General Uses:

Aluminum Flat Rectangular

Made in one cut only.

Fast-cutting teeth

Tapered

Filing aluminum

alloys and other soft

metals

Long Angle Flat Rectangular

Made in one cut only.

Both edges safe

Slightly tapered

Lathe work where

smooth finish is

desired. Also soft

metals

Profile Selector for Swiss Pattern Files

Cross

Section:

Name: Shape: Character of Teeth: Taper: General

Uses:

Hand Rectangular

Double-cut on two flat faces

and one edge. Other edge

safe or uncut

Taper in width Flat surfaces

Pillar Width narrower than hand file

Double-cut on two flat

faces. Both edges safe

Uniform in width Flat surfaces

Warding Thin Rectangular

Double-cut on two ﬂat faces.

Single-cut on two edges

Tapered in width

uniform in thick-

ness

Slots, locks

and keys

Square Square Double-cut Tapered Corners, holes

Three Square Triangular (Equilateral)

Double-cut on three faces.

Single-cut on edges

Tapered Corners, holes

Round Circular Double-cut

Either tapered

“Rat Tail” or blunt

Corners, holes

Half Round Third-Circular Double-cut Tapered Corners, holes

Knife Knife-Shaped

Double-cut on ﬂat faces.

Single-cut on edges

Tapered Slots

Notes:Notes: