Peppers

LSU AgCenter Pub.2132 Peppers 1

Peppers

Peppers are a popular crop in the home garden,

especially in Louisiana. These colorful fruit (green, yellow,

orange, red, purple and black) range from sweet and mild

to hot in avor. Consumed raw they are high in vitamins C,

B6, A and E. In Louisiana, peppers are often used to avor

gumbo, jambalaya, etouffee, rice and gravy and other Cajun

and Creole standards. While the pepper is a necessity for

avoring local cuisine, it is also an important ingredient in

foods around the world.

The pepper plant is in the Solanaceae family as are the

tomato, Irish potato and eggplant. It most likely originated

in tropical America. Black pepper spice is the seed of a

completely different type and family of plants.

Types and Varieties

Peppers are classied as sweet, mild or hot. Their

hotness is related to the amount of capsaicin, a chemical

present mainly in the seed but also in the fruit walls. The

heat or pungency of peppers is rated using the Scoville

Scale. The Scoville Scale ranges from zero to a little over 2

million Scoville Heat Units (SHU). The higher the number,

the more pungent the pepper. For example, bell peppers

have a rating of zero SHU. The famous Tabasco sauce

ranges from 500 to 2,500 SHU while the Carolina Reaper

pepper has a rating of 2.2 million SHU. Removal of the

seed and fruit wall directly beneath the seed will make a

hot pepper milder. Pepper groups may also be based on

other fruit characteristics and usage. The following is such

a grouping:

Bell Peppers: The majority of peppers grown. Fruits

are sweet and generally blocky with three or four lobes.

Bell peppers are usually harvested in the green-mature

stage, but some are bred for their yellow, orange, purple

and red color at full maturity. Allowing colored bell

peppers to mature to a full ripe color in Louisiana can be

difcult because of the presence of insects, disease and

our hot and humid climate during the growing season.

Peppers can be harvested at the rst blush and allowed to

continue to change color off the plant.

Bell Pepper Recommendations for Home Garden

Production

Open pollinated: Jupiter, Capistrano and Purple

Beauty.

Hybrid: Camelot X3R, Excursion II, Heritage, King

Arthur, Plato, Paladin, Revolution, Aristotle X34, Summer

Gold, Valencia, Enterprise, Lafayette, Declaration, Purple

Bell, Tequila and Purple Beauty. All America Selection

(AAS)-winning hybrid bells are Super Heavy Weight,

Blushing Beauty, Bell Boy and the piquant Mexibell.

Other Pepper Types

Peppers come in a large assortment of sizes, shapes

and colors. The hotness varies from sweet to very hot.

Some are for sauces or spices and some for frying, pickling

or cooking. Types and varieties that produce well in the

southeast include the following:

Anaheim: A long, slender pepper that is very mild in

avor. It is consumed raw or cooked. It is very popular in

salsas. Home gardeners can try to nd these peppers at a

local nursery or mail-order catalog.

Banana/Cubanelle: Named for their color and

shape. These peppers are generally 1-2 inches thick and up

to 6 inches long. Banana peppers are slightly sweeter than

cubanelles, and cubanelles mature into darker colors, but

they are extremely similar. Try planting, Banana Supreme,

Inferno, Aruba, Cubanelle, Biscayne, Anaheim, Hungarian

Wax and the AAS winners Carmen, Giant Marconi and

Gypsy.

Cayenne Peppers: A very slender pepper with a

tapered end. This pepper is mostly consumed dried and

ground as an herb to avor foods. Try planting Charleston

Hot and Large Red Thick, Mesilla, Large Thick, Long Slim,

Super and Cayenne (N).

2 LSU AgCenter Pub. 2132 Peppers

Habanero: A short, small and round pepper that

boasts a lot of heat. Try planting Habanero.

Jalapeño Peppers: These small fruit are 1 1/2 to

2 inches long and 1/2 to 1 inch wide. They have thick

skin and taper to a rounded point. Jalapeños are mild to

medium in heat. Try planting Tula, Jalapeño M, El Rey, Mitla,

Grande, Ixtapa and Tormenta.

Poblano: A large, longer-than-wider heart-shaped

pepper. The Poblano is mild and can be consumed raw,

cooked or smoked. The dried or smoked version of the

Poblano pepper is called an Ancho pepper.

Ancho Peppers: Try planting Tiburon, Ancho 101, San

Juan and San Martin.

Serrano: A shorter pepper, 2-3 inches long, with a

tapered end and a slim stature. These peppers boast a

little more heat.

Tabasco: Famous in Louisiana for the sauce made

from this pepper, the Tabasco pepper is very small, less

than 1 inch long, slender and tapered at the end. The fruit

mature from a pale green to yellow then orange to a deep

red.

Please note that some very hot groups are dangerous.

Use extreme caution to keep the burning irritant in

any hot peppers away from the eyes or delicate tissues.

Ornamental peppers generally have very small fruit and

include both hot and mild varieties. Ripe fruit of any of the

types can be dried and ground to make hot red pepper,

chili powder or mild paprika.

Cultural Practices

Soil Preparation

Peppers are grown on most soils in Louisiana, but they

prefer a well-drained soil rich in organic matter. Choose a

location with full sun. Too much shade causes the plant to

become thin and leggy and will produce low yields. Ideal

conditions have a minimum of 6-8 hours of direct sunlight.

Acidic soils may cause stunted growth with chlorotic

(yellow-spotted) and puckered leaves. Acidic soils (less

than a 5.5 pH) should be limed in the fall or winter to a

pH of 6. A soil test is the only accurate way to correct

this problem. Your county agent can help you with this.

When working the soil, till in or band about 1 pound of

a complete fertilizer such as 8-24-24 per 20 feet of row.

Make sure the fertilizer is 6 to 8 inches deep if banded.

Consider Mulch

The soil-warming effect of black plastic mulch in large

home gardens greatly increases the growth of peppers in

early spring. This results in earlier and larger yields. The

mulch also conserves moisture and fertilizer and helps

control weeds and some disease. In many areas of the

state, aluminum coated or sliver plastic mulch is used

to help with insect control. The reected light from the

painted surface helps to repel aphids and thrips – small

insects that feed on peppers and transmit virus and

disease. In small gardens mulch is still necessary for weed

and moisture control. Consider mulching peppers with

pine straw, newspaper, leaves or hay.

Bell Pepper

Yellow Wax

Cayenne

Cubanelle

Jalapeño

Habanero

Tabasco

LSU AgCenter Pub.2132 Peppers 3

Planting Dates

Peppers are commonly transplanted after

temperatures have risen and danger of frost is past.

Peppers are sensitive to low temperatures and may

be stunted if transplanted too early. Generally, in the

southern part of the state, peppers can be transplanted in

late March. In north Louisiana, begin transplanting mid-

April. Bell peppers may be transplanted through early May

with acceptable yields expected.

Plantings made later than this will set few, small, poorly

formed fruits because of the heat. This explains why bell

pepper production continues June through early July and

then stops. If these plants are maintained by spraying,

watering and fertilizing, fruit will begin to set again in late

summer after the temperatures become more favorable.

For a fall crop, transplant bell peppers in late June through

early July. Most other types of peppers will continue to set

fruit through the summer and on into early fall if properly

fertilized and watered. Plant seed 8-10 weeks prior to

the spring planting date and 4-6 weeks prior to the fall

planting date.

Bell peppers may be planted 15 to 18 inches apart in

the row with rows spaced at least 36 inches apart.

If plants are to be kept through fall, thin out every

other plant in mid-summer to allow room for growth.

Varieties that produce larger plants, such as Tabasco or

Cayenne, should be spaced about 3 feet apart and possibly

wider. If space is limited, it is possible to plant two rows

of bell peppers on a bed. Space the plants 18 inches apart

within each drill, and space the drills 10 to 12 inches

apart. This will help to increase the total yield of a given

area. Apply a cup of diluted starter solution to each plant

at transplanting. Even if starter fertilizer is not used, the

plants should be watered in. Set transplants at the same

depth they were grown in their containers.

Encourage Plant Growth: Fruit set begins within a

few weeks after transplanting, and harvesting begins about

70 days after transplanting. If a pepper plant begins setting

peppers when it is too small (usually less than 1 foot),

remove the small peppers and sidedress the plants with

fertilizer to encourage more plant growth before further

fruit set.

Sidedress after rst set of fruit with either 1/2 pound

calcium nitrate, 1/4 pound of ammonium sulfate or 3/4

pound of 8-8-8 per 20 feet of row. One pound of fertilizer

is about 2 cups. On light sandy soils, it may be necessary

to sidedress with a complete fertilizer such as 8-8-8.

Otherwise, just use nitrogen. Sidedress again every four to

ve weeks thereafter. Older plants may have to be staked

and tied to help support their later heavy growth and

weak branches.

Peppers will drop blooms and develop blossom-end

rot when stressed, especially as a result from lack of soil

moisture. Blossom-end rot shows up as a sunken brown

or black area on the bottom of the pepper. Because

peppers have a shallow root system, water thoroughly

every week or 10 days if an inch of rain has not fallen.

Peppers can be harvested at any stage of development.

Bell types are usually harvested when rm and green. If

harvested immature, the fruit will be thin, soft and will

shrivel. They may also be harvested after they have turned

red or yellow. At this time, they will be sweeter and have

higher carotene content. Carotene is a precursor to

vitamin A. Other types may be harvested in the mature

green stage or at full maturity and full color development.

When removing the fruit, hold the stem and snap the

pepper off carefully. Pepper plants are brittle and break

easily. Fresh peppers may be stored four to ve weeks in a

refrigerator if kept at 33°-40° F.

Pest Control

As with all crops, peppers that are properly cared

for, fertilized, irrigated, mulched and spaced properly will

have less trouble with insect and disease. When applying

any pesticides, read the label rst. The proper use of these

materials will be benecial to you, your crops and the

environment. Proper timing, proper application and use

of the correct amount are essential for the safe use of

pesticides.

Weeds

The roots of the pepper plant grow near the surface,

so use only shallow cultivation (particularly on older

plants) to control weeds. Several herbicides are approved

for peppers. These include Dacthal and Trean. These

selective preemergence herbicides normally suppress

weeds for six to eight weeks. Control grassy weeds

postemergence with herbicide containing the active

ingredient sethoxydim. Follow label directions, or contact

your county agent for more information on the proper

use of these herbicides.

Insects

Aphids: Two types of aphids, the green peach aphid

and the melon aphid, are responsible for damaging pepper

plants. Aphids often infest pepper transplants as they

come from the greenhouse. Heavy aphid infestation

results in leaf distortion, stunting and yellowing of plants

and reduced fruit set. Large numbers of aphids are found

congregated on the lower side of leaves. Black sooty mold

fungus grows frequently on honeydew (sticky sap-like

residue) excreted by aphids. They also transmit plant

viruses such as Pepper potyvirues and Pepper mottle

virus. Presence of ants on plants often indicates an aphid

population since ants feed on honeydew produced by

aphids.

4 LSU AgCenter Pub. 2132 Peppers

Select pepper cultivars with viral resistance for best

protection. Using aluminum-painted plastic mulch and

removing damaged plants may help in reducing virus

transmission by aphids. Use water from the garden hose

to dislodge and reduce concentrated aphid populations.

Soap solutions, neem oil and insecticides malathion and

imidacloprid are helpful in managing aphid populations.

While spraying, thoroughly cover the whole plant

especially the lower leaf surface. Controlling ants can also

reduce aphid populations.

Whiteies: Whiteies are usually present on the

underside of leaves. Whiteies cause damage by feeding on

plant sap. Heavy infestations may cause defoliation, wilting

or stunting of pepper plants and reduced yield. Like aphids,

whiteies also secrete honeydew and can transmit viruses.

Leaves with honeydew are sticky and may turn black due

to growth of sooty mold fungus. Always check new plants

before buying/planting for the presence of whitey nymph

and adults. Use of reective mulches will help in reducing

population buildup of whiteies. Imidacloprid is labeled for

use in home garden pepper to control whiteies.

Thrips: Thrips feed on new leaves and developing

owers, causing distorted and cupped leaves. Larval

feeding also causes discoloration in developing fruit. Thrips

are not easily visible on plants but can be seen by shaking

owers and new foliage over a white sheet of paper. The

major damage caused by thrips is transmission of Tomato

spotted wilt virus (TSWV). The virus can only be acquired

by the immature stage of thrips, whereas plant-to-plant

transmission occurs by adults. Use of reective mulches

will make the plants less attractive to thrips and hence

reduce virus transmission. Spraying thoroughly with

insecticidal soaps, neem oil and imidacloprid soil drenches

will help in managing thrips; however, use of insecticide

sprays may not be very effective in preventing TSWV.

Diseases and Disorders

Blossom-end rot and sun scald are two common

disorders of pepper fruit. Blossom-end rot begins as a light

green to yellow sunken spot on the bottom of the fruit.

Fruit with blossom-end rot often turn color prematurely

and are more susceptible to other diseases. Blossom-end

rot is caused by a calcium deciency and aggravated by

drought stress. Amending the soil with calcium-based

fertilizers can help to alleviate this disorder.

Sunscald of fruit occurs when the fruit is overexposed

to sunlight. Maintaining a healthy thick canopy is the

best management option. Plants under poor soil fertility,

drought stress or that are diseased will have thin canopies.

On a small-scale, shading cloth can be used to protect

the plants from the heat of the day. Excessive defoliation

caused by bacterial leaf spot may result in sunscald.

Varieties that produce a thick canopy are usually less

susceptible to sunscald.

Bacterial spot, Tomato spotted vilt virus (TSWV),

southern blight, Phytophthora root rot and anthracnose

fruit rot are common diseases found on peppers grown in

the home garden. Bacterial spot is caused by a seed-borne

bacterium that attacks the leaves and fruit of pepper.

Warm and humid weather favors disease development,

and the pathogen is easily spread from plant to plant

by rain splash and common production practices such

as tying and harvesting. Symptoms rst appear as small

circular water-soaked spots with a yellow halo. Over

time, the entire leaf turns yellow and the affected leaves

drop off prematurely. Plants with bacterial spot are more

susceptible to sunscald. Management of bacterial spot

relies on prevention. Select varieties with resistance to

bacterial spot. Only use certied disease-free seed and

transplants. Avoid overhead watering and pruning when

the leaves and stems are wet. Copper-based fungicides

applied weekly will slow the spread of disease but only if

applied before the onset of the disease.

Tomato spotted wilt virus is vectored by thrips. Thrips

acquire the viruses by feeding on nearby weeds that are

harboring the virus. Disease symptoms include stunting,

bronze spots on the leaves and twisted or cupped leaves.

TSWV is best managed by selecting pepper cultivars with

resistance to the virus. Always check transplants for thrips

or thrip damage before planting. Removing symptomatic

plants and keeping the garden free from weeds can slow

the spread of this disease.

Southern blight is caused by a soil-borne fungus.

The fungus attacks the crown of the plant at the soil line

causing stem girdling resulting in plant wilting and death.

The disease develops when soil temperatures warm up in

mid-spring. At the base of the plant white fungal growth

on the plant and soil may be observed. In later stages

the fungus develops mustard-seed like structures on

the stem near the soil line. There are a no varieties with

resistance to southern blight and no soil-applied fungicides

registered for the home garden. When symptoms are rst

observed, remove and discard affected plants along with

the associated topsoil. Do not compost diseased plants. In

severe cases soil sterilization or a new planting site should

be considered.

Phytophthora root rot is caused by a fungal-like, soil-

borne pathogen. Disease develops if soil around the base

LSU AgCenter Pub.2132 Peppers 5

Visit our website: www.LSUAgCenter.com

William B. Richardson, LSU Vice President for Agriculture, Louisiana State University Agricultural Center

Louisiana Agricultural Experiment Station, Louisiana Cooperative Extension Service

LSU College of Agriculture

Pub 2132 (online only) Rev. 04/17

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of the plant remains wet for long periods of time (one to

two days). The disease spreads through water in the soil

and is most common in late summer and early fall, when

rainy weather is common. Wilting of the entire plant, even

when the soil is moist, is the most common symptom. As

the disease develops, the stems will wither and dieback.

Providing good soil drainage by incorporating compost

and selecting resistant varieties are the best options

to prevent Phytophthora root rot. Root rot is fatal and

removing diseased plants is critical to prevent further

spread of the disease.

Anthracnose fruit rot, caused by a fungus, affects both

immature (green) and mature pepper fruit. Medium to

large sunken spots form on the fruit, and these spots may

be covered with masses of salmon-colored spores, under

wet and humid conditions. The fungus can survive on seed

and in the soil or on plant debris. Protecting the plants

from soil splashing onto them using mulch can prevent

fruit infection. Avoid the use of overhead watering, and

pick fruit regularly. Diseased fruit should be bagged and

discarded. The fungus can be killed during composting if

temperatures of 120° F are sustained for at least three

days.

Authors:

Kathryn Fontenot, Assistant Professor (School of Plant,

Environmental and Soil Sciences)

Mary Sexton, Extension Associate (School of Plant,

Environmental and Soil Sciences)

Melanie Lewis Ivey, Assistant Professor (Ohio State

University-Wooster Campus)

Jaspreet Sidhu, Research Associate (Department of Plant

Pathology and Crop Physiology)

Raj Singh, Assistant Professor (Department of Plant

Pathology and Crop Physiology)

Sebe Brown, Assistant Area Agent (NE Region)

Ron Strahan, Associate Professor (School of Plant,

Environmental and Soil Sciences)

Thomas J. Koske, Alan Morgan and Don Ferrin (Retired)